Accor­ding to legend, the giant Ole Bul­der’s head was cut off and pla­ced on Rak­lev Church. Read more about the myste­ry behind the curious sto­ne head, here

GPS: 55.6978684, 11.0661141  

Par­king: The­re are numerous free par­king spa­ces at the church

Good to know: The church and sur­ro­un­ding area is in itself well worth the visit

Near­by attra­ctions:

Legends sur­ro­un­ding the head

Legend has it that “Ole Bul­der” lived in Tra­ne­mo­sen (“The Bog of Cra­nes”) a bog­gy area nort­heast of Rak­lev. All acco­unts we have descri­be him as a mena­cing cha­ra­cter of some sort or other: a tyran­ni­cal lord, a pira­te chief, or even a Jotun (a race of cha­o­tic dei­ties in Nor­se myt­ho­lo­gy similar to the Titans in Greco-Roman myth often trans­la­ted as “giants”), who fier­ce­ly con­trol­led the sur­ro­un­ding land for many years. Some sto­ri­es also men­tion him as having super­hu­man strength and being of giant sta­tu­re. Thus, the head on Rak­lev church is sup­po­sed­ly an indi­ca­tion of his true height, pla­ced in the spot whe­re his head would be if he was stan­ding upright against the church. Other sto­ri­es say that it was Ole Bul­der him­self that built Rak­lev Church.

The tale of Ole Bul­der’s demi­se inclu­des some even more fan­ta­stic, fairy tale-type ele­ments. Thus it is said that one day the local far­mers, final­ly fed up with the brutal giant, deci­ded to lay a trap for him, con­si­sting of a cow hide with peas under­ne­ath. When Ole Bul­der step­ped in the hide, he slip­ped and fell flat to the earth, whe­re the far­mers could now overta­ke him and cut off his head, and afterwards pla­ce it on the church gab­le.

The sto­ne head has also been the cen­ter and sub­ject of various folk medi­ci­nal pra­cti­ces throug­hout the years. It was said that rain water that had struck the head could heal various ail­ments if you drank it, and that the gro­und under­ne­ath the head could be dug up and used in amu­lets, to pre­vent disea­se among the catt­le.

Fact vs. fiction

No doubt the legend of “Ole Bul­der” is a com­po­si­te of seve­ral dif­fe­rent sto­ri­es that have evol­ved over cen­turi­es. It is is extre­me­ly unli­ke­ly that the head on Rak­lev Church was ever meant to depi­ct or com­me­mora­te any such per­so­na­li­ty, howe­ver mun­da­ne he might ori­gi­nal­ly have been com­pa­red to the later legends. The head itself is done in Roman scul­p­tu­ral sty­le, which was popu­lar in Den­mark from the mid 11th until the mid 13th cen­tury, when the Got­hic sty­le took over. His indi­ca­tes that the head could be a rem­nant of the medi­e­val Kalund­borg church, Saint Olai. If so it is like­ly a depi­ction of Jesus or even of Saint Olai (Olav The Holy) him­self, one of the most ubiqui­tous Nor­dic saints. This would make sen­se, sin­ce Rak­lev Church also was inau­gu­ra­ted to Saint Olai. Furt­her­more this would show a link betwe­en Olai/Olav and Ole, all der­i­ved from the same name. “Bul­der”, which means rum­bling, could show a con­nection to Thor, the god of thund­er and in fact Saint Olai ended up repla­cing Thor in the Nor­dic tra­di­tion. The ele­ments of Nor­se myt­ho­lo­gy also shine through in the more fan­ta­stic legends about Ole Bul­der, whe­re he is descri­bed like a Jotun.

Howe­ver, seve­ral thin­gs indi­ca­te that the­re was a per­son in the Rak­lev area that could real­ly have put some scars on the pea­sants of the day. The ear­ly 14th cen­tury was a pret­ty dark time for Den­mark: The coun­try was most­ly paw­ned and under the juris­di­ction of Holste­in, with seve­ral local areas con­trol­led by mem­bers of Ger­man nobi­li­ty via their appo­in­ted stewards. This was the situ­a­tion in Rak­lev as well. In 1325, a Holste­i­ni­an by the name Hel­rich Bein­fleth took con­trol of the land near Tra­ne­mo­sen and the­re are indi­ca­tions of him being a very rough steward. Besi­des that, he actu­al­ly had a back­gro­und as a pira­te. Bein­fleth ruled the Rak­lev area for almost two deca­des, so if he real­ly was as brutal as histo­ri­cal sour­ces indi­ca­te, he could inde­ed be the ear­ly inspira­tion for the Ole Bul­der legend.

This the­ory is sup­por­ted by the fact that rem­nants of what could be a cast­le or fortress has been found aro­und Tra­ne­mo­sen over the years. 150 meters nort­heast of the farm Grøn­vang, for examp­le, seve­ral buil­ding mate­ri­als from medi­e­val times have been exca­va­ted in recent years. Whet­her this is in any way con­nected with Bein­fleth, we don’t know. But it indi­ca­tes that the sto­ri­es about a mena­cing pira­te lord living in Tra­ne­mo­sen aren’t as far fet­ched as they might seem at first.

But even if the­re is a con­nection betwe­en this and the infa­mous sto­ne head, we know that “Ole Bul­der” was not the foun­der of Rak­lev Church. This honor goes to Rak­lev paris­h’s first Lut­he­ran pri­est, Mel­chi­or Jen­sen, and is qui­te well docu­men­ted. That a local lord, let alo­ne a pira­te, would have been depi­cted on a church also seems absurd. But one thing is for sure: the­re are qui­te a few myste­ri­es sur­ro­un­ding this noto­rious, old sto­ne head, still wai­ting to be uncove­red.

 

Select sour­ces

  • Jens Niel­sen — Sog­nets Histo­rie 1 & 2 (Rak­lev Sog­ne­blad #2 & #3, 2018)
  • Kir­sten Dan­da­nell — Sørø­ve­re i Tra­ne­mo­sen? (Jul i Kalund­borg #53, 1990)
  • Thor­kild Gravlund — Her­reds­bo­gen Sjæl­land
  • Victor Her­man­sen — Træk af Kalund­borgs Histo­rie i Mid­delal­de­ren (Fra Hol­bæk Amt, 1934)